It was kind of hot, but not too long since I started from Hospital de Obrigo. I walked through thecity of Astorga, home to another work of art by Gaudi and a Cathedral that had a wonderful facade. So, I sat at a cafe and had a coke while I looked at the two buildings. Then I headed on to Murias, a lot was on a sidewalk, but then through a field.My home for the evening was run. Y some really nice people. For dinner I had gazpacho, which made me very happy.
Day 25: Murias de Rechivaldo . to Foncebadon
My room was right along the Camino so I started hearing voices pretty early. I got up and started walking. It was mainly on a gravel path through some fields and part of it was next to the road.The guidebook had me stopping in Rabanal, before a steep ascent up to Foncebadon. It was a longish Walk (at this point in time 3 days ago seems like forever so I can’t recall all the details). However, I did run into a woman I’d seen at the hostel in Hospital de Obrigo and in Murias so I stopped, for coffee and we chatted. She’s from S. Africa (Johannesburg ) and works in conflict/coaching. She did the Camino from Pamplona three years ago. The hike up to Foncebadon was pretty steep and even though it was hot, I was glad to get it over with. The town used to be in ruins (and much of it still is (I ran into Sharon again and she said that last time there wasn’t even a road). My room was nice and since it was up in the mountain there was very little light and along with Jupiter and Saturn I was able to see tons of stars!
Day 26: Foncebadon to Molinaseca (was suppose to be Ponferrada though): woke up early to catch the sunrise and then hiked up the last part of a tiny hill. The sunrise was beautiful and the mountain scenery was a great change of pace. First stop was Cruz de Ferro. It’s a huge iron cross where pilgrims are suppose to leave a stone thatthey carried up that represents their worries, andthen they leave their rock and worries behind at the cross.... so I did that. Then lots more hiking,up and down, and then the really rough descent (I think my guidebook has a danger warning). Glad I had walking sticks and it took awhile, but I made it to the town of Acebo, where I ran into Tina! We decided to hike down together which involved a lot more rocks and slopes. Finally we made it to the town of Molinaseca, which was adorable! We grabbed some food and a cafe by the river and I talked about how I had five more miles to go to Ponferrada. Tina pointed out that even though tomorrow was long, it was relatively flat, so I could just add Ponferrada tomorrow. So thatswhat I did! We had dinner, and by 8:30 pm were so tired from the mountain that we said goodnight/goodbye.
Day 27: Molinaseca to Villafranca de Bierzo:
The people at the bar outside my window were up until 2am🤨
I left at 7:30 ish to start a roughly 20 mile day. The beginning was kind of blah, still in the mountains, but on a sidewalk along a road. First stop was the city of Ponferrada . The have a nice castle and a nice clock tower. I had a cafe con leche and then headed out. There were a whole bunch of small towns/suburbs along the way so I made a couple of other pit stops. Headed out of the last town (along the road🙄) with rolling hills of vineyards on each side. Then I recalled there was an alternative path to the roadside path andit went through the vineyards! So I took that route and it was super quiet and pretty. It goes through a small town that’s kind of like a ghost town.... then back to vineyards. Along the way there were signs that talked about some of the vineyards. Then it started to rain so I got the trusty poncho out and kept hiking. Eventually it stopped raining so I took it off because it was hot and then of course it started to pour as I entered my final town so I had to get it out again.
The hostel I’m in is nice, but the bunk beds are like children’s bunk size and they seem wobbly 😬
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