Today was a short walk, a lot of it along a path next to the highway and other roads. Nothing to exciting. I cut the stage short today to save the steepest climb of the whole hike for tomorrow. I am very glad I did this because as I got closer to my hotel it started to rain. Then, it poured for hours, and much of that uphill trail is mud. Read a book and went to bed early because tomorrow was going to be my toughest day yet.
Day 29: Las Herrerias to Triacastela
So, the actual “stage” is Villafranca to O’Ceibeiro, which is a town you hike 5 MILES straight up to get to. My original plan was to save those five miles for the morning and then just chill in O’Ceibeiro. Then I decided I wanted to spend more time in Madrid, which means I needed an extra day, so I decided to hike up, across and down themountain in one swoop (over 18 miles). The hikeup was tough and if I had had to do it yesterday in the rain, I would’ve started crying and made a tent on the side of the pan with my poncho and sat there. The path was steep and either rocky or very muddy. It was tough, but oh well, I needed to go up. On the way up I also reached the 400 mile mark of my journey!! I finally reached the top after 2.5 hours, popped into the church on top and kept going. The path across the mountain has a lot of ups and downs. I had a pastry in Ligares for breakfast and in some town a huge and delicious tortilla. Eventually I had to hike back down to get to Triacastela and I was super tired. Dinner consisted of chips and chorizo from the grocery store because I was too tired to wait for them to start serving dinner.
Day 30: Triacastela to Sarria
Started late (7:45), ran into Tina along the way. This day was pretty easy, I don’t remember much... on the way into Sarria a woman from Seville stopped me and asked me about my Camino and was impressed that I was doing it solo. It was a good chance to practice Spanish in a lenghthier conversation ! Home for the evening was a hostel that had pods for beds and it was awesome! I also met Lee, a woman from South Korea who I’d seen walking over the past few days. ! I went up to the old town to check out the churches and ran into Tina. We sat down for dinner and I had some pulpo! Then we saw a young woman who we’d seen over the past few days and we asked her to join us. Her name was Camilla and she’s Italian (understands a little English and speaks some Spanish). He father joined us, theywere walking the Camino for two weeks. Camillais a violin student in Rome, focusing on Baroquemusic and her father plays the bagpipes. Alwaysinteresting to hear people’s stories (might be why I teach history). We ran into Graciela and her boyfriend so we joined them for some pizza and ended up carrying on a conversation in three languages (Italian, English and Spanish - Graciela speaks all three!). Then it was time for bed. 
Day 31: Sarria to Portomarin
I left at 7:30 and that was a mistake. Sarria is thestarting point for people who want to do the last 100 km of the Camino for their Compostela, which is fine, but it means tour buses full of people. I’ve spent the last 30 days hiking in nature with minimal people around me, now there were people everywhere, many traveling in large groups and talking very loudly. Not pleased at all, but myfault for leaving late. I got to Portomarin as it started to rain and was very glad I’d made a reservation for the hostel as it was completely full. I was bed 110 in a dorm of 130 beds. Lee was staying in the bunk above me so we had more time to chat and exchange IG. She’s a psychology student and wants to get into counseling youth. She’s also traveling on her own and started in St. Jean.
For dinner I got to overlook the hills and water around Portomarin. I popped in earplugs (which just muffle sounds, but are better than nothing) and went to bed so I could leave early. 
Day 32: Portomarin to Palas de Rei
I left at 6:30 this morning to avoid the crowds and my mission was accomplished!! It was pitch black and in the woods for the first 30 mins, but there were a few people around with headlamps so all was good. It was basically completely quiet. As the sun started to rise you could see maybe 30 feet ahead of you due to the fog. Most of the people I saw this morning were people I had met over the past few weeks and they also were trying to avoid the crowds. The fog lasted a pretty long time and my hair was completely wet with dew (as were my eyelashes). Finally, we hiked up out of the fog and got a great view. The rest of the walk was pretty overcast, which was fine by me. I ran into the sons from the family from France that I met in Castrojeriz (met the day, daughter and oldest son). I found out their dad had had two heart attacks and had to have surgery in Leon😳. He encouraged his children to continue their Camino. His surgery went well and he’s in the path to mending.
In Palas de Rei I stayed in a hotel with pretty exterior stone walls. I was really tired from the early start and long walk so I went to bed early. 
Day 33:
Palas de Rei to Melide
I only did 9 miles today so I can get between stages and the crowds😊. Super easy, although it started out in the 40’s, at least the sun was out! The people who’s started two days ago had reached the limping/blister/ankle leg brace phase of their journey, so I kinda looked like an ass as I bounced down the path with a full backpack, not using my poles and drinking a coke 😂. Nothing too exciting today. I walked around Melide, had some pulpo and sat in the sun and readsome. Tomorrow is 16 miles so hopefully I can get an early start!!
